Published On: April 12, 2024 Contributor: Gheya Boulware
In recent years, Africa’s influence has gained global acknowledgment in the realms of arts and entertainment. There’s been a huge transformation in the fashion world as African brands have emerged from behind the scenes, boldly stepping into the spotlight. This shift not only raises the bar for upcoming African designers, but increases the opportunity for the continent to become a strong force in the fashion industry, supported by a well-established fashion infrastructure. Yet there are still obstacles to overcome and journey’s to navigate in order to achieve such a significant milestone. Various challenges like resource disparities and the lack of education, training and investment lurk in the shadows, preventing the growth and development of Africa’s greatest fashion talent. Questions like, “What measures will be taken to provide strong support systems for emerging designers in the region?” and “Will ‘made in Africa’ perpetuate stereotypes of inferior quality or demonstrate the continent’s strength for producing high-quality clothing and accessories?” arise.
The fashion industry continuously seeks answers, but one thing is for certain: today’s African designers are tapping into cultural elements while working earnestly to maintain the continent’s legacy and heritage. They are skillfully bridging the gap between traditional design techniques and cutting-edge innovations, creating both high-end and mass-produced products. This discussion will delve into the advancements made, barriers encountered, and potential solutions in relation to these issues.
The evolution of fashion in Africa has been marked by significant strides. The advancements, the challenges faced, and the hopeful solutions shaping the continent’s fashion narrative.
Fashion in Africa has come a long way, and now it’s making big strides with new ideas and improvements. Digitization is playing a huge role, especially in different parts of Africa. Designers are using strong digital solutions such as modern day digitized showrooms, virtual reality and effective online payment options to become accessible and connect with millions across the globe. Recent info from UNESCO shows that the number of people in Africa who buy things online has gone up from 13% in 2017 to 28% in 2021 — and that’s a massive 334 million users. This increase doesn’t just mean more customers; it also shows that Africa is becoming a leader in global fashion by combining technology and creative ideas.
Africa’s artistic roots have had a strong impact on world-renowned luxury designers, evident in the vibrant inspiration displayed on fashion runways. The distinction between drawing inspiration and cultural appropriation can be unclear, particularly in Balmain’s recent Autumn/Winter 24 Collection. Olivier Rousteing combined French silhouettes with African patterns, prompting discussions on cultural influences. Despite this, showcasing it on a global runway has demonstrated its impact on the luxury fashion sector, emphasizing the importance of homage and thorough research on the continent. In the realm of trends, Africa continuously leaves a distinctive mark that is immediately recognizable. It has been particularly celebrated for its textiles and fabrics which have evolved along with its distinctive contributions like tribal printing, Maasai beading, weaving techniques, and dyeing methods such as Batik and Adire.
Africa is experiencing rapid growth to meet increasing local and global demands. The continent annually hosts 32 fashion weeks, such as Dakar and Accra Fashion Weeks which serve as platforms uniting designers and fashion enthusiasts. These events are crucial for supporting local designers and making them more visible in the industry. African fashion weeks happen year-round, and their important dates have a sizable impact on international fashion months, especially in June.
When exploring the path to success in luxury fashion, one can draw inspiration from accomplished designers like Thebe Magugu, a prominent force in South African luxury fashion. Magugu’s journey began with a passion for design that he nurtured in his homeland. The brand has been worn by celebrities like Rihanna, Burna Boy, Halle Bailey and Lupita Nyongo. His rise to prominence culminated when he won the prestigious LVMH Fashion Designer Prize in 2019, a testament to his creative prowess and influence on the global fashion stage. Then, as a finalist in the International Woolmark Prize in 2021, Magugu continued to showcase his commitment to innovation and excellence, solidifying his position as a trailblazer in the industry.
On a similar note, aspiring designers would also look up to contemporary womenswear brand Andrea Iyamah, which has achieved remarkable success within the accessible luxury fashion market. The brand has accumulated consistent acclaim in prominent publications like Vogue, Forbes, Huffington Post and other notable platforms through the years. Andrea Iyamah, led by Nigerian fashion designer Andrea Dumebi Iyamah, is a fashion brand deeply influenced by ethnic cultures and the beauty of nature. Established in 2011, the brand incorporates design elements that authentically reflect the celebration of African heritage. Drawing inspiration from travel and the natural world, the brand’s vibrant colors, modern femininity, retro classic silhouettes, and contemporary flair are designed to resonate with the “A.I woman,” an adventurous spirit in both mind and style. Her most best-selling resort wear collections have been spotted on celebrities such as Michelle Obama, Kate Hudson, Ciara, and Issa Rae among many other notable stars.
Despite the progress in Africa’s fashion scene, there is still so much room for improvement — particularly when comparing the financial support behind African designers to major players like French luxury conglomerates LVMH and Kering, which are associated with today’s most popular and widely recognized brands. These conglomerates have secured substantial financial backing, contributing to the global success of fashion houses like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Fendi, and other luxury pioneers. On the flip side, some of Africa’s greatest designers have not experienced equivalent support, largely because of the supremacy and widespread appeal of European brands. A key challenge faced by African designers stems from businesses’ reluctance to invest in them. Throughout history, the focus has overwhelmingly been on European brands, leading to an imbalanced landscape for African designers seeking recognition, hindering their ability to compete globally. The limited availability of financial support not only prevents creativity, but also blocks the capacity to engage in essential research and development in exploring novel high-quality materials, innovative technologies, and adopting sustainable practices.
In addition to the financial constraints, there is a wealth of opportunity in providing education and training within African schools that cater to fashion. Outdated and underdeveloped courses fail to provide students with the necessary hard skills required to sustain a fashion business in the competitive global market. The curriculum often lacks competitiveness on an international scale, making challenges worse for emerging designers and professionals in the field. To cultivate a thriving fashion ecosystem, there is an urgent need to revamp educational programs, so that they align with contemporary industry demands and standards. Today, organizations like the Council for International African Fashion Education (CIAFE) is a think-and-do tank dedicated to advancing and decentralizing fashion education and research in Africa to enhance the continent’s fashion ecosystem, sustainable development and economic growth.
In Africa, there are more than 500 fashion schools, as per CIAFE. However, only a few of them have gained international recognition. It’s crucial to redirect attention from just having many schools to ensuring they offer quality education. Fashion design remains the top choice among students, covering various topics such as pattern making, garment construction, sewing, and fashion illustration. But the current education system often falls short in providing a thorough understanding of the industry’s challenges and strategies for success. Consequently, many graduates lack the necessary business skills needed to thrive in the competitive fashion world. This deficiency makes it challenging for them to innovate, grow, or expand their businesses both locally and globally.
African and Afro-Diaspora Fashion Researcher, Consultant and Podcaster Nifemi Ashani, who has successfully completed a research fellowship with CIAFE in 2023 and has navigated the fashion industry as a well-acclaimed fashion stylist for publications like Glamour Magazine South Africa, says, “Imagine if fashion students in the region were trained not only in fashion design, but also in areas like fashion business, product management, or journalism. Such interdisciplinary training could revolutionize the way we share our narratives within and beyond our borders. I believe that by offering diverse fields of study within the fashion industry, educational institutions can inspire students to explore alternative career paths and recognize their potential to make a meaningful impact, regardless of their role within the industry. Hence, through my fashion podcast, Sunday Refocus, our mission is to shine light on the diverse roles and practitioners within the fashion industry. We believe that by showcasing the inner workings of this dynamic field, we can empower emerging creatives to envision the multitude of possibilities available to them in fashion.” As highlighted in the 2021 annual “The State of Fashion Education in Africa” report from the CIAFE , a well-functioning fashion school should be anchored in six fundamental areas: fashion history and heritage, quality control, fashion law, fashion technology, professional development, and business and entrepreneurship. Over the past year, CIAFE has broadened its focus to include textile science and fashion merchandising. By integrating these essential components into the curriculum, educational institutions in Africa can cultivate aspiring designers with a diverse skill set, essential for success in the dynamic and ever-changing fashion industry on both local and global scales.
Stereotypes about products labeled “Made in Africa” come from old ideas shaped by biases and misunderstandings with deep historical roots. Most modern stories portray Africa as a place with lots of resources, but not as advanced culturally. These stories have an impact and affect how people see Africa and its products, creating stereotypes that don’t show how diverse and positive the continent truly is. Emphasis on issues like poor cities, outdated production facilities, and environmental concerns contribute to the belief that African-made products might be of lesser quality or unsophisticated, creating hesitancy around investment. Apart from economic factors, there are environmental challenges for Africa in the fashion industry such as biodiversity loss, carbon emissions, and wastewater problems. IIn 2019, nearly a third of the global secondhand clothing market’s imports — estimated at $5 billion — was attributed to Africa.. In East Africa particularly, 335,000 people work in the global secondhand clothing industry, with about 80% of Africa’s population overall wearing secondhand clothes. These challenges, however, do not define the entirety of Africa’s fashion landscape. Despite facing misconceptions and environmental hurdles, the continent’s fashion industry is marked by resilience, creativity, and a growing commitment to sustainability. Many African designers are reclaiming narratives, incorporating traditional craftsmanship, and infusing modern trends into their creations. The push for sustainable and ethical practices is gaining momentum, challenging the stereotypes that have lingered for too long. Initiatives promoting local manufacturing, fair labor practices, and eco-friendly materials are reshaping the narrative around “Made in Africa” products. Organizations, governments, and fashion enthusiasts are actively working towards dismantling stereotypes, fostering an environment where African fashion is celebrated for its authenticity, innovation, and positive impact.
A Future Outlook
Right now, Africa’s fashion world is at an exciting turning point, fueled by an abundance of resources encompassing incubators, educational platforms, and digital shopping avenues. The utilization of these resources will serve as the compass guiding the trajectory of tomorrow’s African fashion designers. Through proactive engagement with these valuable assets, aspiring designers have the opportunity to not only refine their skills and knowledge, but also gain a significant influence on the future direction of the continent’s fashion landscape.
However, for aspiring designers embarking on this thrilling journey, it’s vital to tread carefully before embracing available resources or teaming up with incubators to enhance their brand. Inherent talent forms the foundation for success in the fashion industry, requiring dedicated efforts to refine design taste and gain a deep understanding of their core customer and target market. Crafting an engaging brand narrative that clearly portrays the diverse cultural tapestry and traditions of the continent is pivotal. This narrative becomes a powerful tool for reshaping perceptions and drawing attention to the unique identity woven into every fashion collection. Establishing strong and distinctive selling points, along with a carefully planned brand positioning, is essential for setting a luxury product apart and enabling it to compete successfully on the global stage — regardless of whether one aspires to be haute couture, ready-to-wear, or an accessible luxury brand.
