The Soulhaus
Runway image from Alexander McQueen
Category: Art & Design

Inspiring Moments From Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023

As the pinnacle and culmination of ‘Fashion Month’, Paris Fashion Week FW23 was nothing short of a sartorial treat. I was enamored by many of this season’s runway shows, including Rick Owens, Issey Miyake, Loewe, and especially Alexander McQueen. Although the fashion-sphere can sometimes seem esoteric, each design house’s use of structure, draping, craftsmanship, and color showcased innovation in a way that can certainly inspire everyone.

Explore the creativity of designers at Paris Fashion Week, as fashion journalist Tiffany Harrison highlights her favorite moments of innovation, creativity, and mastery craftsmanship that will inspire creativity beyond the runway.


Rick, a cult favorite on the PFW calendar, utilized seemingly unconventional materials for his Fall/Winter 2023 (FW23) collection, LUXOR. His signature voluminous silhouetting,  with enveloping folds of fabric crafting colossal shapes, fashioned each model gliding down the elevated catwalk with a distorted anatomy. The dark and unorthodox, yet inventive showcase also featured a range of desaturated hues, metallic pinks, and blacks, greys, and browns on constructed jackets, draped dresses, capes, cloaks, and sweaters.

Selection of Runway Looks: Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2023 Collection


Working with creative director Jonathan Anderson, Loewe — who continuously incorporates tongue-in-cheek characteristics — gave us optical illusions and trompe l’oeil this season. With some garments featuring blurry dress motifs printed on actual dresses, as well as leather pieces with rigid, structured leather tops, dresses, and skirts — taking a literal approach to the term ‘boxy’. Most pieces were saturated with blacks, browns, and other neutral colors splashed with an occasional hint of pastel hues.

For the set design, Jonathan tapped artist, Lara Favaretto, to create a set of 21 colorful oversized confetti cubes crafted from 10 tons of recyclable solid confetti. Favaretto also normally utilizes materials that retain fragility,  to continuously study the relationship between ‘monument and ruin’.

Selection of Runway Looks: Lowe Fall/Winter 2023 Collection


Entitled ‘The Square and Beyond,’ Issey Miyake’s FW23 collection conveyed a conceptual manipulation of the warp and weft,  consisting of carefully crafted knitwear techniques and incorporating mini conceptual assortments within the collection as a whole. The assortments included Canopy, Square Scheme, Rhythm Check, Counterpoint, Shaped Canvas, Rectilinear, and Square One,  with each of these consisting of 3+ looks.

Rectilinear, for example, consisted of a composition of rectangles in varying colors, which were also horizontally knitted in a linear pattern. Each assortment was poetic in nature — in the strategic way the stitches, colors, and shapes were crafted to create each individual garment.

Selection of Runway Looks: Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2023 Collection


This season was Harris Reed’s debut collection as creative director at the iconic French fashion house, and he did not disappoint. Throughout the showcase, we witness one statement piece after another, with beautifully voluminous dresses, skirts, coats, and capes adorned in vivid colors and bold motifs, including thick black and white stripes and oversized polka dots. The collection was also abundant with strong suitings complemented by millinery composed of fur, lace, and felt.

Selection of Runway Looks: Nina Ricci Fall/Winter 2023 Collection


“Singularity is the past. Intellectually poly. You are dressed for every evening of your life unfolding at once,” boasts an excerpt directly from Ottolinger’s press notes. More cult favorites on the calendar, Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch entice the ‘Ottolinger girl’ to have her cake and eat it too — showing up and making any look work. Along with showcasing garments, knee-high boots, leather high-top sneakers, and crossbody bags in collaboration with Puma, we were  also enamored by Ottolinger’s  motocross-inspired jackets, tops, corsets, deconstructed puffers and knitwear, and garments printed with distorted motifs — which is irrefutably one of the brand’s signatures.

Selection of Runway Looks: Ottolinger Fall/Winter 2023 Collection


Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen, articulates drama in a beautiful yet mysterious and melancholic way with ‘Anatomy’. Executing this collection with incredibly strong sartorial pieces, she describes the showcase herself as “an exploration of beauty and power through tailoring fabrics with a focus on cut, proportion, and silhouette.” The collection was permeated by a dark, yet romantic color palette, with the incorporation of silhouettes with strong shoulders, cinched waists, double-breasted blazers, coats, and skeletal knitwear. 

Selection of Runway Looks: Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2023 Collection


Since Virgil Abloh’s passing in late 2021, designer Ib Kamara was tapped as the new creative director of Off-White, and for his sophomore collection entitled ‘Lunar Delivery,’ the venue was transformed into a vast sandscape — reminiscent of the atmosphere of perhaps another planet, with the artistry of the garments in this collection complementing the set design. The collection delivered afro-futuristic appeal with metallic puffer jackets, strong tailoring punctuated with countless grommets, occasional exaggerated draping, and deconstructed knitwear.

Selection of Runway Looks: Off-White Fall/Winter 2023 Collection