New York Fashion Week: A Rookie’s Rundown of Memorable Moments
Published On: September 30, 2024 Contributor: Betty J. Ogburn
As a woman who spent her preteen years as a loyal viewer of America’s Next Top Model, it became a longtime dream of mine to go to one of the Big Four Fashion Weeks and watch those lithe, statuesque creatures strut their stuff down the runway with panther-like grace. And this past week, God’s favor and my own tenacity collided and afforded me the opportunity to travel to The Big Apple for my 1st ever NYFW!
So off I went in my Chiquita Banana suit jacket, and here I am recapping my sartorial sojourn.
Show #1: Cotte D’Armes
For Clarence Ruth, the Creative Director of Cotte D’Armes, creating this collection was a vessel to honor the sacred in both the past and the present.
“I thought about my childhood…My Mom was a pastor and minister growing up. I just remember sitting in church and seeing the women with the big hats and gloves and the ushers in all white…I just thought it was so elevated. Growing up back then, because my Mom was a minister, it was like everyday wear for us. We were always dressed up.
SS25 Looks Clarence Ruth
So then, I took the mindset of what today’s ‘everyday wear’ is–you know, athleisure and walking around in leggings…I wanted to merge the two together to create a unique, new perspective. So this collection is a merge of these two forms of everyday wear in order to create something special. In the collection, you’ll see dresses and gowns paired with leggings and athletic wear underneath as styling.
Another important thing is the color theme. You’ll see spots of red throughout: The red symbolizes the blood of Christ. Everything I do in my work, in my artistry is me showing up in excellence and the light of Christ.”
Suffice it to say, as a fellow Christ-follower and creative, my chat with Mr. Ruth stoked my spirit in ways I can’t describe!
I ain’t gonna hold ya’ll: I am not by nature an animal print girlie. However, between the color, the denim back of the jacket, and the to-scale (pun unintended) replica of a reptiles skin, I’ll make an exception for this suit!
Show #2: Kate Barton
Turns out I wasn’t the only one to make my NYFW debut: Kate Barton, a 2024 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, made waves in her inaugural showcase with her signature sculptural designs–and, a surprise appearance by supermodel Winnie Harlow!
SS25 Looks Kate Barton
Speaking with Barton after the show, she explained that her creativity flows from a naturally organic, almost improvised space.
“I really don’t look for inspiration from a theme or a specific thing. I really start with the fabric and the draping with a very hands-on approach. I start from a very intuitive place: By letting the fabric drape, you start to see the story tell itself, and it’s an exciting process to see it evolve.
I think it’s very important with every single thing I create to have a personal hand in it and really represent the brand’s core DNA in every single piece, whether it’s a tank top, a sweater, or a couture gown.”
Speaking of representation, Barton aspires to create pieces for every body at every stage of life.
“As I was telling my team earlier, we’re all women in our 20s. We’re the fit models, we’re trying the clothes on, we’re seeing what feels good, we live in N.Y.C. It’s kind of cool being the one building this for women around me with an all-women team, [with the collection] representing all kinds of women and people of different heights, shapes, and bodies.”
Betty’s favorite looks from Kate Barton: Left image featuring model Winnie Harlow
Showcasing Barton’s signature 4-dimensional flair, this white gown with a crystal belt is everything a couture dress should be: chic and elegant, yet innovative.
Show #3: Chuks Collins
Femininity, modernity, and sustainability were at the core of Chuks Collins’ latest collection, “Nné: An Ode to Mama & Different Aspects of Womanhood”. Birthed from “a journey through pain, tears, trauma, and healing”, each piece incorporated ethically- and locally-sourced, traditional Nigerian textiles (e.g. Adire and Batik), paying homage to Collins’ homeland and paying tribute to maternal love, strength, and resilience.
SS25 Looks Chuks Collins
“I am grateful for the opportunity to keep creating and expressing myself through my work. This collection means a lot to me, and the homecoming process has been very healing for me,” Collins shared in his release. “The collection is deeply inspired by my African and Western roots, reflecting a blend of cultures and experiences. Having grown up in Africa and Europe, and now living in the US, I have been empowered and nurtured by many women, including my grandmother, who taught me how to sew. This cultural tapestry forms the foundation of ‘Nné,’ infusing each piece with rich narratives and a deep sense of heritage.”
As if that wasn’t dope enough, all the ticket proceeds from this show go directly to a domestic violence initiative in Lagos, helping women with job training and opportunities.
Betty’s favorite looks from Chuks Collins:
To know and love this Technicolor mermaid, you have to be down with my love of vivid colors. Royal is my favorite shade of my favorite color, and the hood of this gown gives grown and sexy “Little Blue Riding Hood” vibes. Also, as indicated above, I love wearing yellow: It’s bold, and possibly offensive to the eyes, but it absolutely POPS against melanated skin. Hence, this suit makes the perfect corporate chic wear.
Show #4: The African Fashion Council
Commemorating the 30th anniversary of the first democratic elections in South Africa, this showcase from The African Fashion Council featured five of that country’s fabulous female designers.
In a collection that “transcends Art, Sculpture, Time, and Humanity”, Manthe Ribane elevated the basics of black and white with voluminously layered dresses and exaggeratedly sculpted hats–like a monochrome-meets-wicker Handmaid’s Tale.
Described by Gugu Peteni herself as a “celebration of women’s strength and limitless potential”, the “Do Not Tumble Dry” collection served all the Green Goblin meets The Matrix sexiness with all the purple and green-hued leather. Someone page Willem Dafoe!
Inspired by the serene beauty of farmland at sunset, Tsakani Mashabi combined shades found in nature with modern silhouettes for HAMETHOP’s “Resonance” collection.
Demonstrating Thando Ntuli’s signature combination of classic ‘80s- and ‘90s-inspired silhouettes arrayed in multiple layers, this set of designs stayed true to the brand’s ethos: that women should remain true to their most vibrantly loud selves.
Keneilwe Mothoa did anything but cast her pearls before swine in this bejeweled showcase of bold-yet-sophisticated, 3D designs in a color palette of cream, red, black, and olive.
Behind the Scenes with Writer Betty Ogburn:
Writer Betty Ogburn with designer Clarence RuthWriter Betty Ogburn with designer Kate BartonWriter Betty Ogburn attending the Chuks Collins show